Farther Afield

This is always a topic in the guidebooks; they run through the sites of the major city you plan on visiting, and then they mention things farther afield. These sites are at least 40 minutes outside of town and usually best reached by car, thereby eliminating many potential visitors.

Everything is Opposite!

For our UK trip we decided to make the one of our days a farther afield day. Our stops were to include Stonehenge, Lulworth Cove with its Durdle Dor, Winchester to see King Arthur’s Table, and Jane Austen’s home, Chawton Cottage. We would need a car, so we arranged to pick one up the night before we departed on our adventure.

Just a reminder, in case it slipped your mind, in the UK, they drive on the left side of the road. In case that wasn’t confusing enough, they drive on the right side of the car. Our rental car conformed to British standards and provided us with endless amusement because it was a black Volkswagen Beetle. Punch buggy! It was very bizarre being a front seat passenger on the left side. Turning was mildly terrifying, but Joe deserves a lot of credit for driving around both London and the countryside without killing us or anyone else.

Image from The Mortise and Tenon Joint-The Mortise
Available from this website.

When researching Stonehenge, I learned for an additional fee, you can visit the stones before the attraction opens or after it closes to the public. During this visit you do not have to pay for parking and you have free range of the park; you can walk all around the stones and inside the circles, so long as you do not touch or climb on the stones. Since Stonehenge was our first stop of the day, I requested morning admission. Our request was approved, but we were assigned to the earlier time slot: 6:45am. To ensure a timely arrival at the park we needed to depart London around 4:30am. This adventure could not have happened without advanced, pre-booking. I realize that sounds redundant, let me clarify, this needed to be booked months ahead of time, not hours or days. Like at the Vatican Necropolis, the English Heritage controls the number of visitors to protect the site.

When I booked our tickets, I also reserved a guidebook; arriving at 6:45am meant the gift shop would not be open; there would be no one site purchases. However, when we arrived, there was no guidebook; no one remembered to set one out for me the previous evening.

The stone on the left clearly has a tenon showing.
Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England

When Stonehenge is closed to the public, the only staff members on site are the security guards. Because of the incident with the guidebook, we were directed to the head guard, Brian. He apologized profusely, and accepted responsibility for the error—not something done frequently. As recompense for the mistakes made, he offered to answer any of our questions, and act as our personal guidebook. Brian was very knowledgeable, and had spent time with (presumably supervising) various archeologists during their digs in the area.

Inside the red circle is the signature of Christopher Wren
Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England

The first question out of Joe’s mouth was “So the aliens made this, right?” Brian promised to definitively prove that theory false by showing us examples of human error. The outer ring at Stonehenge is made with local sarsen sandstone, hence calling the largest stones sarsens. These were arranged into the iconic trilithons, two upright posts capped with a lintel stone. The stones are joined with two types of joints, mortise and tenon to join posts to lintels, and tongue and groove to join lintels and link up the trilithons. In the thousands of years since its construction, some of the trilithons have fallen and come apart. On one dissembled trilithon, the round tenon is clearly visible. Brian then showed us the corresponding lintel with the mortise groove; on one side of the lintel, a mortise was started, but never finished; the finished mortise was on the other side, clearly demonstrating human error. This definitely demonstrates an error, and “to err is human”, but who’s to say aliens don’t make errors as well? Brian definitively proved the people (or beings) that made the stones were imperfect, but do only humans err?

An ax head is clearly visible here, next to a dagger.
Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England

Having Brian act as our guide was wonderful; he pointed out details we would have missed if we had been exploring on our own. A curiosity he brought to our attention was the ancient and antique graffiti, including a few marks thought to be left by Sir Christopher Wren, architect of St. Paul’s cathedral in London. There are also over 100 ax heads carved onto the surface of the stones. These are thought to be from the Bronze Age, and may indicate the site of burials or cremations since the ax head has long been associated with various deities.

Lichens on one of the fallen stones
Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England

Much to my sister’s and my amusement, there were dozens of sheep scattered in the fields around Stonehenge. Brian explained the sheep are quieter and more picturesque than lawn mowers, so they are used to keep the fields cropped, but they aren’t allowed up near the stones. We asked why, and the response we received was surprising; the sheep eat the lichens on the stones. When the lichens are removed (or eaten) some of the top layer of stone is removed as well, opening up the under layers to abuse from pollutants and weather. There are also rare and endangered lichens on these stones, including a variety usually found only in salty areas, but for some reason, this halophile has thrived some 30 miles inland.

Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England

The morning was hazy and windy, and when Brian finished showing us around, my sister and I huddled behind a stone, trying to block the wind, and we observed the other people around us. There was one guy doing something a little strange. First, he had a small pouch on a string that he was swinging around, like a priest with frankincense. Then he had some L-shaped rods he was holding; they were like metal TV antennae and he was holding one in each hand by the short part of the L. Joe asked him about it, and they were dousing rods; they moved back and forth when they detected energy. Outside the circle the barely moved at all, but inside, toward the center of the circle, they wriggled much more. According to Joe, the craziest part was, the two rods moved completely independent of each other.

Assuming the rods were actually working, and really detecting energy, perhaps it’s residual from the henge’s first use. I watched a documentary on the history channel about how the area was used as a celebratory area for death and rebirth; it’s no coincidence the circle lines up with the sun on the summer and winter solstices. Or maybe the energy isn’t residual at all; Wiccans still regularly conduct ceremonies here. Either way, Stonehenge is still full of mysteries that scientists are continuing to unravel, even as you read this.

Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England

Useful Links!
Pictures from Our Trip!
Article Discussing Reasons Behind Stonehenge's Location (This is recent, from April 2013)
Article About the Lichens on the Rocks at Stonehenge
Stonehenge at History.com
Stonehenge at Sacred Destinations
Map of Stonehenge from English Heritage
Stonehenge Laser Scan: Archaeological Analysis Report (This was interesting)
Summary of the Above Report if You Don't Want to Wade through the Scientific Jargon (Bear in mind, the report is better)
Theories About Stonehenge
History of Stonehenge
National Geographic Article about Stonehenge
Smithsonian Magazine Article about Stonehenge
About Mortise and Tenon Joints

A Visit to Diagon Alley

Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England

Do doo dodo doo do dooo do. Doo dodo doo doo doooo.

That’s my interpretation of Prologue by John Williams, in case you were confused, the song currently playing for your enjoyment. Do doo dodo doo do dooo do. Doo dodo doo doo doooo. We went to Warner Brother’s Leavesden Studios where the 8 Harry Potter (HP) movies were filmed! Get ready for some serious geeking out! It’s a Potter Post!!

My interpretaion of fantasy fiction.
Image from Zazzle Posters

My first encounter with Harry was in the 7th grade, in Canada. This was the first year of its publication and a friend was trying to get me to read it. I blew her off saying I didn’t want to read about witches and wizards. When I said no to her, I was thinking about super nerds, and imagined an artful unicorn poster come to life. Not really something I was interested in; instead I stuck to my mysteries, learning to love Miss Marple and Hercule Poirot. 

The Head Table in the Great Hall at Leavesden Studios
Hertfordshire, England

Later, Harry became harder to avoid. I really hate reading trendy books, so I was still refusing to read Potter, but now for 2 reasons: the aforementioned aversion to fantasy, and the unwillingness to participate in something popular. When the first movie came out on DVD, Harry became impossible to ignore, and I had to suffer through the first movie at a youth group lock in. But it wasn’t bad, and I wasn’t suffering. It was funny, thrilling, and engaging. I was hooked. I hadn’t slept all night, but when I got home, I tore apart my sister’s closet; I remembered my mom had bought the books for my sister a couple years earlier, and that’s where any of us had last seen them. 

I raced through the books, each more amazing than the last. Yes, they were for children, but the writing was beautiful, and I was able to lose myself in it. Then came the agony; only 4 books out of 7 had been published. I’d read greedily, knowing I had easy access to more, and then silence. Waiting. Re-reading. I had to wait years to finish the story. In the meantime, I busied myself with guidebooks, dissecting the language of the world I so loved, and trying to divine the future of the story. It was from these unofficial guidebooks that I really began to appreciate the depth of Rowling’s writing—the amount of thought behind each sentence, each name. This wasn’t haphazard writing; she had a carefully devised plan, and was leaving clues behind for us to follow.

Professor Umbridge was one of my favorite characters because
she was so well written, I loved her because I hated her.
Educational Decrees from Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix
Leavesden Studios. Hertforshire, England.

Harry was my escape. Here was a world entirely different from my own; I could forget the stress of being an angsty teenager, the personal responsibility of college, the fact that I was planning a wedding while fiancé was in a war zone, the nightmares. It all fell away while I was at Hogwarts. I still read the books, once or twice a year, and they still captivate me, every time. I envy those who haven’t read them. It would be wonderful to begin again without knowing what I know now, but with each read comes new perspective and new appreciation of the writing. 

While waiting in line, we were treated to the
cupboard under the stairs from
Harry Potter and the Socerer'sStone.
 Leavesden Studios. Hertforshire, England.

When the movies were released, they brought my imagination to life. On screen, before my eyes, Hogwarts was revealed. I could almost believe it was real, at least for a few hours. Many of the props and sets have survived the decade long franchise, and these are kept at Leavesden Studios in Hertfordshire, another town of my imagination, about 40 minutes outside of London. 

"Password?"
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

Leavesden Studios is an immensely popular attraction. I booked our tickets several months in advance, and reserved the first available time slot. When we arrived, we exchanged our vouchers for tickets and queued up inside. We still had to wait about a half an hour before we were able to enter. Later tours had to wait even longer; the queue had tripled in length when we exited. 

The Black Family Tapestry was enormous, this is only one fourth of it.
The tapestry was on screen for less than five minutes.
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

The tour is self-guided, and you can linger as long as you like. Around the studios is a well-educated staff, only too willing to talk about Potter and the movie magic required to bring the stores to life.  I enjoyed listening to the staff, but I wish I knew where they were standing. I often wandered up in the middle of an explanation, wishing I could have heard it from the onset.

Ron Weasley's Bed
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

The details in the props were amazing. They displayed a level of craftsmanship not easily observed in the films. The devotion to the characters and plots comes through in the sets. Sure, there were some creative liberties taken *cough, cough Burning Burrow cough, cough* but overall the people designing the sets tried to stay true to the books. 

One of my favorite rooms was the boys’ dormitory. This room featured in many of the films, but it didn’t get a whole lot of screen time. Nevertheless, the beds and night stands were outfitted for each particular student. On Ron’s bed was a homemade, patchwork blanket. Was this blanket mentioned in the books? No, but knowing the Weasleys, it is easy to believe such a blanket could have been there the entire time. In the stories, J.K. Rowling didn’t concern herself with minutiae, like how many cauldrons were stacked outside Potage’s Cauldron Shop, but the movies makers did, and as a result, the world experienced a place that could exist in real life; outside of our collective imagination. 

Cauldrons stacked outside Potage's Cauldron Shop.
Diagon Alley, Leavesden Studios
Hertfordshire, England

My one complaint comes from the gift shop, and the actual studios. (Platform Nine and) Three quarters of the gift shop was full of cheap, plastic souvenirs for children; slapping an HP logo or school crest on anything. The last quarter of the store was real souvenirs; things kept in cases and behind glass, things the average collector couldn’t afford. There was no middle ground for someone like me. I loved the concept art, but a non-signed print would have been fine. I don’t need the limited edition, framed version, and I certainly can’t afford it. On the flip side, I don’t want to tack a poster of Daniel Radcliffe to my wall either.

Concept Art of the Goblet of Fire
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England

If you loved the movies, and you definitely know Hogwarts isn’t real, Leavesden is worth a visit. If, however, you can’t handle learning the truth about the movie magic behind the Potter magic, you may want to skip it.



Scroll down for more pictures, and important links.

This owl is real, and she was one the birds that played Hedwig.

This is one of the cats that played Crookshanks, and he is
mesmerized by a treat his trainer is holding.

On the day we visited, the studios were in the midst of celebrating their one year anniversary, and as part of the celebrations, the animal actors were on site.

The Potions Classroom with Self-Stirring Cauldrons.
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England

Some of the Paper Props created for the films.
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

As Umbridge gained more power in the ministry, the crew made her outfits pinker.
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

Potage's Cauldron Shop (R) and Mr. Mulpepper's Apothecary (L)
Diagon Alley, Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

Diagon Alley, Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England.

Wiseacre's Wizarding Equipment
Diagon Alley, Leavesden Studios, Hertfordshire, England

Hailing the Knight Bus
Leavesden Studios, Hertfordhsire, England

Useful Links!

Pictures from Our Trip!
The Ultimate Unofficial Guide to the Mysteries of Harry Potter

Warner Brothers Leavesden Studios

Online Booking of Studio Tours
Purchase Your Own Unicorn Poster from Zazzle.com

The Song Playing is Prologue by John Williams

Williams, John. (2001). Prologue. [Recorded by Simon Rhodes]. On Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone [CD]. London: Atlantic Records.

We Should Have Remembered that Rhyme . . .

The Keukenhof on 25 March 2013
Not much was blooming.
Lisse, The Netherlands

The Netherlands outside of Amsterdam has a more country feel; here are the windmills, wooden shoes, and tulip fields. Tulips were brought to the Netherlands in the 1600s from Turkey, and caused a bit of a stir. People went mad over the flowers, and it is rumored that the tulip caused the first market boom and bubble popping in history. They called it tulipomania, and you can read about it here. Since then, the prices of tulips have returned to their normal levels, most average bulbs are cheap, while some rarer bulbs command a higher price. The Dutch have kept their love of the tulip alive and it’s evident in the fields of blooming flowers every spring.  

Shades of purple/blue hycainths in one of the Keukenhof pavilions.
Lisse, The Netherlands

For years I’ve wanted to see the fields of flowers, neatly laid out in bands of color, making the whole country look like fruit stripes gum. I’ll have to wait a bit longer though because flowers had barely sprouted when we visited! This winter was uncharacteristically cold and blustery, leading to a delayed blooming season. I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised, we all learn April showers bring May flowers. March is not even part of the rhyme; I should have known.

All the shades of hyacinths at the Keukenhof,
Lisse, The Netherlands

About 40 minutes outside of Amsterdam, in the town of Lisse, is a giant park called the Keukenhof. Here the Dutch celebrate their tulips with a festival from the end of March to the middle of May. The flowers are planted to make shapes (this year the theme was the UK) and beds are layered with multiple types of flowers to ensure something is always blooming; except when it’s cold and the blooming season hasn’t even started yet.

Around the park are various pavilions with dedicated exhibits and events throughout the season, much like a county or state fair. Inside these buildings we found blooming flowers. There were more colors and varieties of these plants than I have ever seen before in my life. For example, hyacinths, an early spring bloom that smells amazing; I’m accustomed to four colors: yellow, white, purple and pink. At Keukenhof, there were four shades of purple alone, and a whole new shade, orange.

Also around the park were smaller buildings, like garden sheds, and in these, you could purchase flowers. And I purchased flowers. I plan on making my own version of Keukenhof if everything grows and flourishes. In the fall, the bulbs will be shipped to me in the States, but I may not be there, so I put my mom’s address down. This fall she’ll receive a shipment of 200+ Dutch flower bulbs. This promises to be crazy; also I may owe my mom for the rest of forever for tending them while I’m away. So, next spring, pay a visit to my parents’ house and see a small version of the glory that is Holland.

Useful Links!

Pictures from Our Trip!

Business Week Article about Tulipomania

Tulipomania Wikipedia Page

Keukenhof Homepage

DAmsterdam

Amsterdam is an interesting city. Sitting below sea level, the people there have been using dams, locks, and canals to keep the water at bay for centuries. The canals lend a sense of calm to an otherwise frenzied city. Marijuana is legal in Amsterdam and the heady scent is pervasive. Many teens were walking around bleary eyed, and I was reminded of my trip to Canada at 19. The main purpose of the trip was to drink legally, and the kids visiting Amsterdam were probably there to smoke legally.

A Lovely Canal
Amsterdam, The Netherlands

And of course there were the whores. According to our guide, this was the preferable term for these women; there isn’t a Dutch word for prostitute. Around the area were young men scared and eager to pay for sex with the girl in the window—quite literally. In the Red Light District, scantily clad women wait behind glass, some beckoning you, others doing mundane tasks like eating lunch or checking email on their phone. It was like going to the zoo and realizing you have a lot in common with the animals. Some people find the experience humorous and awkward, I just felt pity, and a slew of questions came to mind. What led these girls to this occupation, and will they ever be able to leave it with dignity? Do they have health care, or are they susceptible to whatever diseases their current sex partner is carrying? At the very least, I hope they can choose to leave.

So what does one do in Amsterdam if smoking and whoring are off the table? And believe me, they are off the table. Two friends joined Joe and I, and the four of us spent our time wandering around the city and eating regional treats. J + A found some delicious cookies called stroopwafles, a sandwich cookie consisting of two layers of thin waffles on either side of a caramel filling. They also discovered speckuloos butter. This is butter made from spicy (laden with spices, not hot) cookies that are common at Christmas time. They are available year round in the United States in the form of windmill cookies, a treat I grew up with. This butter is phenomenal! I imagine on pretzels it would be delicious, but we also just spread it on the stroopwafels, creating a terribly delicious snack. A quick google search has told me that Trader Joe’s may carry the butter. Pick some up and pretend you are eating it while strolling along the canals in a wind tunnel, and you’ll have an approximation of our vacation, as it was VERY windy in Amsterdam during our visit.

We also enjoyed a regional specialty—pancakes! We visited the pancake bakery, a restaurant in one of the old warehouses of the East India Trading Company. With our order, we received a free cup of hard cider courtesy of our Holland passes. The options for pancakes were fanciful and numerous. You can check out the menu here. The boys opted for savory pancakes with meat and cheeses, while we girls got sweet pancakes with fruits and nuts. Our hubcap sized pancakes were thin, like crepes, but they were still very filling, and more than any of us could eat.

Our wandering took us through bustling markets and busy streets, along the canals, and to the temporary home of the Van Gogh museum, the Hermitage. The exhibition, Vincent, was a small collection of his works as well as some three dimensional objects that influenced him. I began to understand Van Gogh as a whole person through some of his lesser works, the focus of the exhibit.

Wandering through the museum I was astonished at the range displayed in his pieces. I was familiar with some of his more abstract pieces, but there were finely detailed sketches and a room full of paintings done in the Japanese style that I had never seen before.

I enjoyed seeing Sunflowers in person; the layering of paint to create texture was easy to see and appreciate at such a close distance. I considered buying a reproduction but none of them used enough paint to reproduce that effect. We also enjoyed seeing a painting, and then seeing the exact object in real life. Seeing a vase, and then seeing that exact vase in painting humanized Van Gogh for me. He became less a name in a book, and more a man who lived.

Useful Links!

Pictures from Our Trip

Stroopwafel Information

Windmill Cookies

Trader Joes Speckuloos Butter

All About the Pancake Bakery
Pancake Bakery Menu
Van Gogh at the Hermitage