Naples

When we told people we were going to Naples, Italy, they kept asking “Why?” In short, we wanted to see Pompeii, and that means flying into Naples. We didn’t actually spend much time in Naples itself, but judging from the car window, it looks like the recession and austerity measures have taken their toll on the city. It was dirty; there was trash everywhere, and many buildings were vacant and boarded up. Also, the air was thick with the smell of smoke, all the time. And recently I learned why, the mafia has taken control of the trash situation in Naples, and is burning it around the city. When I think about this trip my feelings are pretty neutral. We had fun touring Pompeii and the other sites, but it was a very stressful environment; the good was tempered by bad.

We were cautioned against parking on the street as it increases the risk of theft. When the rental place gives you this information, you know it’s happened often. We actually saw lots of cars with broken windows. Furthermore, the drivers are completely insane. I heard more beeps over the weekend that I have in the past year, or even two years.

Traffic laws of any kind are completely ignored. At 20kmph over the speed limit, Joe was still being honked at like a little old lady. Lanes seemed to be optional and up for debate; cars and scooters constantly smushed into any space available. People passed in the intersections, went the wrong ways on roundabouts because it was faster, and drove in reverse for reasons unknown.

At any intersection stopping is frowned upon and hesitation is punished by repeated honking. You are expected to jump in front of traffic and hop for the best (continued survival and an unscathed car). For example, we were turning left from a side street onto a main road with heavy traffic. Our side street did not have a traffic light, so we were waiting for a break in the cars to turn onto the main road. In Naples, this is wrong; instead, the locals just go after a nanosecond pause, assuming the other people will probably stop.

This type of cavalier driving does in fact take its toll on the vehicles. I don’t think we saw a vehicle without any scratches or dents. Perhaps they don’t care about their cars. Or they haven’t realized that driving like maniacs results in vehicle damage. Either way it was the most stressful driving experience we've encountered – including driving in London on the opposite side of the road.

Useful Links!
Newsweek Article about the Trash Mafia