Paris pt. 3 850 years of Catholicism

Cute metro stop leading to an underground labyrinth
of passages and rail lines

After we left the Arc de Triomphe, we decided to try out the metro rail. Turns out it was super easy! For only €3.40, both of us were able to ride to any single stop on the metro. After learning this, I regretted walking all day. Every joint and every muscle in my lower body was throbbing by the time we sat down on the train. We rode to the stop closest to Notre Dame de Paris and set out to fulfill the last identifiable picture from 1945.

Like many cathedrals in Europe, Notre Dame is the result of centuries of work. This cathedral is one of the first buildings designed in the gothic style, and in fact set the precedents of architecture for many cathedrals following after. It may be difficult to pronounce Notre Dame ever truly finished. This year marks the 850^th anniversary of the church, and they are receiving 9 new bells from the French government. The new bells will replace the bells that have rung in the church since 1856. The 1856 bells were themselves replacement bells; cast of poor quality metal and producing inferior sound. During the French revolution, the bells were stolen from the church and melted down; since that time, the bells in the cathedral have not done justice to the majesty of the building.

The Portal of the Last Judegment
Western Facade, Notre Dame de Paris
2011

The Portal of the Last Judegment
Western Facade, Notre Dame de Paris
1945

We arrived shortly before a mass, and were able to witness the start of the service. Friday night Advent services include several priest and frankincense and myrrh. A warm glow filled the massive space from candles and spotlights; just enough to keep the rooms dim. It is very easy to understand how the cathedral could represent the power and beauty of God to the people.

Notre Dame de Paris

Paris pt. 2 Meeting more famous Ladies

Leaving the Louvre, we decided to go to the Arc, because we could see it from the museum, meaning it had to be close. Lies. Deception. Trickery. According to Google, the two are separated by a 45 minute walk. I think it is safe to assume that this period is calculated without including stops to look at cool things along the way. We were also looking for a place to eat that wouldn’t break the bank, but we quickly realized that cheap food would be hard to come by, and decided that if we were going to have to shell out for lunch, we would do it in style, and would eat in the Eiffel Tower restaurant. Hence, we diverged from our path to the Arc, and headed for the tower.

Still 1.7km away

It looked pretty big as we started walking toward it, but we came to realize, that once again, we had been deceived by its size, and our destination was actually much farther away than we thought. As we walked closer, it began to loom ever higher overhead, and I realized how truly large this landmark is. For some reason, I never grasped its size from pictures, but this tower is 1063 feet tall, quite a feat when you take into account that it was constructed in 1889.

A Couple Blocks Away

This structure is unique in its lack of walls; it’s like the skeleton of building, only made from steel and rivets. We paid for our tickets, including a trip to the very top, and joined the elevator queue. It dropped us at the 2^nd floor, a mild inconvenience for us hungry people who wanted a hot meal in a restaurant with walls, on the 1^st floor. This necessitated a climb down the tower, over 300 dizzying steps. It is very difficult to focus on the climb when you can see the ground below you, and feel the wind whipping around. To conserve space, the levels are built on top of one another, so you feel like you are climbing down in a circle, further enhancing the terror of the climb. I do not recommend this for anyone who is afraid of heights (Hi mom) in any capacity, just pay to take the elevator.

Directly Underneath the Center of the Tower

In the restaurant, we ordered some very tasty food and drank some French wine in France. The waiter was not so great. I think he either resented us for being so young, or was prejudiced against us, and expected us not to pay or tip. Regardless of the reason though, he provided much better service to all the older couples in the room. We were ready to go and trying to get him to bring us our check, when he started hurrying all of the people out of the tower. He was acting very flustered when he asked us all the please pay and hurry out of the building as there had been a threat. Another (American) patron asked, “What a bomb threat?” and the waiter confirmed this to be true. For whatever reason no one panicked, we all quickly and orderly made our way to the elevator. This reminds me of an important point: always carry cash in case the international monument you are dining in has a bomb threat and you need to evacuate quickly. Words to live by people.

PHOTO BOMB!!

At the bottom we loitered for a few minutes, trying to decide the legitimacy of the danger at hand. We decided on the off chance there was a bomb, we would vacate the area, and not die in the pile rubble. Since we had other destinations on our to do list, we picked one that put as much distance between us and the tower as possible. We kept checking back to make sure it was still there, and tried to count the police cars that raced toward the tower. It was strange to walk through the city knowing something that the millions of other people around us did not. As it turns out, it was only a threat, but better safe than sorry. http://www.hindustantimes.com/world-news/Europe/Eiffel-Tower-evacuated-over-bomb-scare/Article1-780349.aspx

Scroll right and left to see the whole picture!

I know its a big picture, but I didn't want to shrink it. Now you can imagine you are there too!

Panorama from the 2nd Floor

Looking for Arches that aren’t Golden, Mysterious Buildings, and Rose Windows

While we have been in Europe, I’ve been trying to track down locations featured in my Grandpa’s photos. I do not have all the information about his time in service, but I do know that he was here in 1945. My Grandma found a little book detailing some of his locations and the action his unit saw, but it stops in April 1945 and I have pictures from September 1945. Grandpa took all the photos, and developed them himself–my mom actually found a letter from him to his aunt, apologizing for not writing sooner, as his spare time had been devoted to developing pictures. On some of the photos, he wrote the city and the date, but others were blank. I started with two easy ones, labeled Brussels and Paris.

                                                                   

Brussels 1945

Finding the building featured in the Brussels photograph proved to be quite a challenge. Google image searcher was not helpful. Neither was googling any combination of the words Brussels, 1945, WWII, history, photos, etc. Following several hours of non-fruitful internet combing, I just decided to start using google street-view to roam around the city. Now, before you picture me sitting at my computer digitally walking up and down the streets of Brussels, I had a plan. From studying the photograph, I learned some important information about the street pictured. First: the street pictured was flat–important because so many of the streets in Brussels are not. Second: both the road with the building and the road my Grandpa stood on, had streetcar tracks, and were wider than normal streets. Third: I was able to discern some of the features of the buildings lining the street, as well as letters on a sign–SAMY. I looked up streetcar routes in Brussels, and learned that they had changed a lot since 1945, and many had been paved over in the intervening years, so that lead was out. SAMY didn’t return any results either. I was left with wide flat streets. I found a couple possible buildings, but when I showed them to Joe, he did not think they were the right one. Even after all that searching, when we drove into Brussels, I had almost nothing to go on.

We were not paying attention, and had left the GPS on silent as we approached the city, so we missed out exit, and had to take an alternate route. This actually proved quite fortuitous. Driving in, I was checking every street, trying to see if any features jumped out at me, or if the building I was searching for lay at the end. We finally turned onto a long flat street, and at the end, there is was, the same building my grandfather had photographed 60 years earlier. The streetscape had drastically changed; nothing remained of the SAMY building or the intricate façade of the building on the left, but somehow the building in the center of the picture remained unchanged. The building was not labeled, and when we tried to go inside and get some information, it was empty and under construction, though most recently it seemed to have been a bank. As of this moment, I do not know the purpose or history of this building: it remains shrouded in mystery.

Brussels 2011

The Paris picture seemed easy; it was of an arch, so I assumed it was the Arc de Triomphe. Little did I know there were so many arches in Paris. By the time we reached the Louvre, we had already seen 4. I was getting a little uncertain about the arch in the photo when we started walking toward it, and the angles did not match up. However, as we moved closer, we realized that the arch had two sides, and my grandfather had taken his photo from the other side. Tiny heart attack averted, and arch photo snapped.

Paris 1945

Paris 2011

The final picture I decided to track down during this trip was a “new” photo. My mom has been away from work on medical leave, and found some time to scan more photos from my Grandpa. I used images.google.com to try to track down some of the more obvious pictures. One such a picture was of a rose window on a cathedral. To my untrained eye, this could any number of rose windows on any number of cathedrals in Europe. Many look very similar to each other, and an unlabeled, 60+ year old photograph of only a rose window seemed difficult to trace. However, google image searcher said it was most likely the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. I compared the photos myself and agreed with that assessment, and Notre Dame was added to our list. 

Chasing History

When we learned of our imminent move to Europe, I told both moms that if they wanted me to track down any holes in the family history, I would be glad to do it. My mom adopted family research as a hobby of hers some 10 years ago, but has not done much with it since then. In the intervening years, the internet has grown exponentially and I now have access to documents she could only read about before. It seemed possible that I could turn up something new, especially with first hand access to documents here in Europe.

Further fueling my passion to research history was our location in the former heart of the Nazi regime. I knew my grandfather had fought the Germans during WWII and I was interested to learn more. When students learn about WWII in the US, it’s not a very hands on lesson. We were bombed by the Japanese, we shipped all our able bodied men overseas, and our women got to work in the factories and to wear pants. In Europe, there is a completely different story told. We do not learn about the two sides bombing anything that moved and leveling centuries old cities to the ground. We do not learn about the atrocious acts some soldiers committed against the German people in retaliation (mass gang rapes in front of other family members). We do not learn that our “spoils of war” belong to the families of the dead soldier from whom they were stolen.

I watched a special on BBC international (one of our very few English channels) and it discussed the spoils of war taken from Japanese soldiers during WWII. Our soldiers stole pictures, helmets, and flags from the deceased Japanese soldiers. This show focused particularly on the flags. Many featured words of love and encouragement for the Japanese soldiers. Now, the US soldiers are working to return the spoils of war to the families of the war dead and to provide some closure. This hit particularly close to home, as I know my grandfather has a Nazi flag, and I wondered if it had the same kind of significance. As I retrace his steps here, I am learning a lot more than I ever did during history class, and though history is written by the victors, there are plenty of “losers” here who remember details we seem to have “forgotten.”

Paris pt.1 We meet Lisa

Where to begin with Paris? Perhaps with its size: Paris is the largest city I have been to, miles and miles of buildings, each with its own history. We arrived by train, with a plan in mind: the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe and the Notre Dame de Paris. A big agenda, but we had 10 hours and felt that we could accomplish our goals if we moved quickly.

At the train station we obtained a map, and noticed that the tourist desk sold fast pass Louvre passes for 10 euro. Since it was our first destination, we bought 2 and headed that way. Our route to the Louvre took us through some seedier parts of the city, not dangerous feeling, just not as family friendly as other places. We saw our first real-live prostitutes, and passed by a troop of day laborers before entering the garment district where the shops sold scads of buttons and fabrics.

After a lengthy walk, we reached the Louvre, which was packed with people waiting in line outside, even though it was cold, rainy, and the middle of the day. We realized they were waiting for tickets, and as we had already purchased ours, we could bypass the line, and go right inside. If you want to visit the Louvre, buy a ticket before arriving at the museum. This will save your hours in line, which you will want once you get inside.

The Glass Pyramid of the Louvre

The Louvre buildings are a work of several hundred years, beginning in the 1100s, and with the passing of time they grew more grand and ornate. The present layout is sort of like an upside-down U, where you approach from the open end, and descend underground through a glass pyramid to enter the different wings.

Expect to be jostled, and keep a close eye on your things as there are people everywhere and, yes mom, you could get pick pocketed. It didn’t happen to us, but I suppose it could have it we had not been on guard.

Since this museum is so large, it is best to arrive with your battle plan already laid out. You will not be able to see everything in 1 day, so don’t expect to, or you are setting yourself up for disappointment. Instead, pick out a few pieces or artists beforehand, put them on a must-see list, and plan your footsteps accordingly. Also, make sure your must-see list is not too long, as it is easy to get distracted by something breathtaking.

My plan was concise: Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Medieval Louvre, and Objects d’art. Even this list was too long. We were only able to see the first 3 things on the list, and we were in the museum for 3 hours. 

(Clarification: we saw other masterpieces besides the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo, just not the items on the list)

The Mona Lisa

Some quick observations:

The Mona Lisa is very tiny, only 20 by 30 inches. This may sound large, but you cannot get within 20 feet of the painting, so it appears smaller from that distance. Other paintings are closer, but Lisa needs extra protection

This painting will absolutely be surrounded by people just standing and listening to their audio guides. They do not feel the need to make room for others, so if you want to photograph it or see it closer, it helps to be short and to have skill throwing elbows.

The Venus de Milo

 Lots of the Greek and Roman statues are missing body parts



 Paintings depicting the lives of Saints can be very dramatic to look at (think severed heads)

Medieval Louvre is a cool (temperature) place to explore, which is a nice break from the other, warmer rooms


You are allowed to photograph the artwork, but you may not use a flash or a tripod, so it can get a little tricky. To accomplish non-blurry photographs, own a decent camera, and familiarize yourself with its manual exposure settings. 

And now, a sample of what awaits you at the Louvre:

Christ Carrying the Cross

Altarpiece of the Virgin

Christ Carrying the Cross

David and Goliath
(I love how only the masterpieces are in focus)

Gastronomic Establishments

This is how all the guide books refer to restaurants. I think it is the result of an interesting translation. I know the word, but I can’t say I have ever heard them used in context before our trip. We have eaten sausages, sauerkraut, and schnitzel in Germany, waffles in Belgium, crepes in France, and Swiss cheese in Switzerland. My favorite I think were the waffles, though during our week in Belgium, I found myself missing the bratwursts that had become a regular feature of our diet.

In Mons, two particular establishments stand out above the rest: the Indian place and steak on a rock. Sadly, I did not take note of their real names, but both places are located on the main plaza in Mons. The Indian place will be easier to locate, and well worth it. The staff speak English and you can order food to go, or stay and eat in the restaurant. I have done both, and I have not been disappointed by anything they served. The prices are also very reasonable.

Steak on a Rock is up the street from the tourist office and looks to be a run-of-the-mill bar, but I promise you, it is not. While they offer other fare, their main dish is raw meat served on a hot stone. This arrives at your table on a tray with salad, potatoes, and a dipping sauce: you tend to the cooking yourself. The meat is seasoned, but I highly recommend the pepper sauce. It’s delightfully spicy without alienating those who don’t like spicy things. And the meat is delicious. I can’t comment on the cooking, as you watch it yourself and are in control of the doneness and dryness. We order the mixed grill because it lets you taste a little bit of everything. In addition to the draw of the food, there is the beer. Dozens and dozens of beers to choose from, each in their own specific glass; I never had a repeat while I was there. A word of caution though, Belgian beers are usually stronger than American ones, and 1 beer in Belgium can have 2-3 times the potency of their counterparts in America.

We bought our Belgium waffles from a street vendor during the Christmas market. These waffles are vastly superior to the ones available in the states. It’s a different flavor and I’m not sure how to describe without borrowing from the Mad Hatter: they have more muchness. 

Mons

Mons, Belgium is where NATO has its SHAPE headquarters. This means, when Joe has to go to Belgium, we stay in the small town of Mons. We arrived at night, causing the place to look dark and a little forlorn. It is an old industrial town, and lacks some of the gothic splendor of the larger cities where we had been staying. Most of the buildings are constructed of brick, which is an unusual medium for European buildings. I will be the first to say that I misjudged it. My first impression was sadness, as if Mons was a town that time was not kind to, and then forgot, but I found my mistake the following morning.

It’s amazing what sunlight can do to improve the image of a place. While Joe was at work, I walked uphill into the town square. It was a hive of activity as workers prepared for the beginning of the Christmas market at the end of the week. Our hotel was maybe 100ft down one of the side streets off the square so it was easy to navigate around the town without getting lost. I wandered around and saw an interesting church under construction, and began to appreciate the differing style of architecture, as it gave quaintness to the tight streets.

I visited the tourist office and received a free guide book on the town and the surrounding area. In 2015, Mons will be a UNESCO Capital of Culture, and the tourism office is hard at work making sure the town is ready to receive an influx of visitors. Construction work is already underway, and many places were closed to undertake preparations for the event.

The guidebook did call my attention to the Castle Park. This sight was open(ish) and in the city, so I could easily walk to it. I asked him about it, but Joe had never been there, so I was off to explore this new territory on my own. I am convinced that I discovered the prettiest place in Mons.

Castle Park is situated around the belfry, which is famous on its own for being the only baroque belfry in Belgium. The belfry tower is easily discernible from anywhere in the city, and it rises up behind all the buildings on the square. To find my destination, I simply walked uphill, and kept the belfry in front of me. The entrance to the park is near a youth hostel, and is up a one way street. I was hesitant but climbed up this street too, and through the gate. It was open so I figured that if the park were closed I could at least use the open gate in my argument, The road led upward between two walls, so the view during the climb was unexceptional. It terminated under a stone building, and before me lay a beautiful park on top of the city. The sunlight at the summit was warming, and the park’s height provided wonderful vistas of Mons and the surrounding towns. I walked twice around the park, reluctant to leave, but it was lunch time, and I needed to be back at the hotel room. Normally, the belfry is open, and visitors can tour inside, and presumably, climb to the top, but this too was under construction, so I had to content myself with merely walking in the park.

The following day I brought Joe to witness it for himself. In warmer weather, I believe I will spend my mornings there while he works, happy just to be in such a pretty place.