Showing posts with label Ludwig II. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ludwig II. Show all posts

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Ludwig Revisited


The Swan King by Christopher McIntosh
I just finished a lovely biography of Bavaria’s favorite, deceased royal: Ludwig II. The book was The Swan King by Christopher McIntosh. In previous posts I mentioned how Ludwig is typically characterized as being mad, but now I’m prepared to revise my previous statements.

My earlier research portrayed him in a comical light, a jester with humorous antics, but this book had me pitying Ludwig. The story starts, like most biographies, with his childhood. Here we find a child neglected by his parents and passed off to various tutors. He was a pampered prince but this is no reason to write off this treatment. As anyone is contact with children knows, a stable household goes a long way in overall well-being, and Ludwig’s household was far from stable. At 18 his father died, and he found himself in charge of kingdom on the cusp of war.

Ludwig appears to have been painfully shy, not an ideal quality for a statesman. He was also sexually repressed. Most historians agree he had homosexual tendencies, and due to attitudes of the time, Ludwig spent his entire life trying to suppress these urges. His personal diary reads of repeated attempts to be “good”, the subsequent failures, and his promises and oaths to never stray from the path again. It’s heart-wrenching to read these endeavors and know that he considers his soul imperiled.

When his shyness advanced to a degree where he no longer wanted to be around fellow aristocrats, he withdrew to his buildings. Ludwig’s lack of interest in state affairs led to his government declaring him insane and unfit to rule—even though the diagnosing physician had not examined Ludwig in person.

Recent research into Ludwig’s madness has suggested that he may have had a form of syphilis since childhood—like his brother Otto, also confined due to his insanity. Others have suggested that Ludwig suffered from the lasting effects of meningitis, or that madness ran into his family. While this all could be true, the Bavarian government manipulated the system to remove him from the throne. Following this deposal is Ludwig’s mysterious death.

Both Ludwig and his physician, Dr. Gudden, were found dead in Lake Starnberg, but recent reviews of the autopsies indicate only the doctor had drowned. There is speculation that Ludwig was trying to escape from his confinement and the doctor dosed him during the argument. Did the fight led to Dr. Gudden drowning and Ludwig dying from an overdose of a sedative? We will never know for sure, but this is one of the many theories advanced about their mysterious deaths. This book changed my perspective of the fabled King, and taught me his life was not always enviable.

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Belated Post about a Munich Trip


I’m sorry this hasn’t made it up here before now, I guess I’ve just had too many other things going on, and I got into a bad habit of neglecting this space. But here it is, a synopsis of our trip to Munich on November 3rd. Yes, it has been that long.

Since we came out here, I’ve been trying to get Joe to go to some palaces or castles. It took until the 3rd to make that happen. Bavaria has 65 state-run castles, palaces, and gardens, and you can purchase a pass to visit all of them. I love this offer. You can buy a ticket to see 1 palace, a 14-day pass to see as many as you want, or a 1 year pass to see as many as you want. It was € 65 for the year pass for a family, which I believe is 2 adults and 2 children. We can go visit ANY of the state run palaces, AND we can leave and come back at our leisure, something that the single visit passes don’t allow. This means we can leave the palace area to get lunch or drinks (without the palace markup) and come back after for more touring. Seriously, I am crazy excited about this card.

We bought our card at the Palace of Nymphenburg in Munich. This was originally the summer palace of Bavarian royalty, and when it was built, it was in the countryside surrounding Munich, though now it’s in a quiet corner of the city. The palace is preserved in the style of King Ludwig I and his wife, Queen Caroline, grandparents to “Mad” King Ludwig II.

That's the Palace there, waaaaay at the end
The palace is truly an oasis from the city. It sits on nearly 500 acres of park land, and is a huge U-shaped symmetrical building. I loved the approach to this palace, along a long, rectangular, man-made lake, leading to a large fountain lake, ending in the beautiful façade of the building.

The Steinerner Saal
Inside is truly breathtaking. I should have been a royal. Seriously. That is the good life. And, if I can find some chairs that look similar to the Queen’s, I will be reupholstering them in brocade so I can feel fancy. 


We think the REALLY happy guy in the middle is her dad.
While we wandered amongst some royal portraits, we heard this weird pounding. We rushed to the nearest window, and saw a bridal party dancing to the beat of a drum and tiny trumpet. I have no idea what culture the wedding was, but I’m guessing some kind of Middle Eastern because of the outfits the women were wearing. They looked so happy, and the Dad’s dance was so proud. It was truly a joy to witness, and made our visit exceptional.


 Ludwig II on a Nighttime Sleigh Ride by R. Wenig
Ludwig's Sleigh
The Queen's Chairs
Part of the palace was the carriage museum. This huge gallery was full of carriages from the previous royal era. The were all so very gilded and intricate. It brought to mind Jay Leno and his car collection, only these were carriages and sleighs. Furthermore, there were the horse decorations, bridles and other horse-wear (sorry I don't know all the horse terms). No saddles though. I'm amazed at how many vehicles and artifacts have survives, but apparently someone had the foresight to move them before the war. It's hard to pick a favorite, but it was really exciting seeing the carriage from the painting of Ludwig II on a Nighttime Sleigh Ride by R. Wenig, and the painting itself. This was especially exciting as these images, and the King's peculiarities were the inspiration for the DarKastle ride at Busch Gardens, Williamsburg, VA. 

Joe checking out the Lego vending machine.
After our visit ended, we walked back to a train station, and hopped one toward central Munich. In the train station we found a LEGO VENDING MACHINE!  How crazy awesome is that?! We didn't buy anything, but maybe next time. 

My goal for dinner was to find a brewery we hadn’t been in before, so we wandered around until we came upon Schneiderweiss. We went in, grabbed a seat, and ordered. We were soon joined by some Germans, and they proudly informed us that Schneiderweiss was a great choice, as it was tastier, and more authentic than the nearby Hofbrauhaus. Regular readers will know my feelings about HB, and those newbies can check it out here. 



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Sunday, November 6, 2011

I Wish I Were a Disney Princess

Alpine Cow
Saturday November 5th, 2011


The day started with a 200+km drive South through Bavaria and into the Alps.

About halfway through the trip our GPS routed Joe and I off the highway and we drove through some very small towns and through farmland complete with nonchalant cows.

We also drove over a very large extension bridge, under which, an expansive, teal blue, placid lake. Luckily, the Germans seem to know they have gorgeous scenery along their roadways, and have built numerous little stop offs for those who want to photograph their surroundings.We parked the car and walked out across the bridge to take pictures of the mountain lake. After taking our fill of pictures, we continued our drive.




BOOM! Around a corner, rising out of the crags is the joy of (possibly) Mad King Ludwig II, Schloss Neuchwanstein. This castle served as Walt Disney’s inspiration for Cinderella’s castle in Disneyworld, and it is easy to see the resemblance. 
Neuschwanstein Castle

During his reign, Ludwig was declared mentally ill and removed from the throne and from Neuchwanstein. Shortly thereafter, one day, he mysteriously died in the lake of Castle Berg where he was held under house arrest. No one knows if he was murdered or committed suicide, or died as a result as an accident. He was 41 years old.
Neuschwanstein Castle

















A mere 6 short weeks after his death, Neuchwanstein castle opened as a museum for tourists.

You can hike up the mountainside for 40 minutes, or you can take a bus (paying of course) to near the top, and then hike only 15 minutes. There was no escaping a hike. We opted for the bus ride, and I'm mostly glad we did. I say mostly glad because the driver, who makes this drive probably 20+ times daily, took the turns very quickly, and the road edged up to some perilous drops, which were visible from the bus windows. It was quite nerve-wracking.

The castle is literally situated above the town, and then rises up even further.
Neuschwanstein Castle

It is wonderfully imposing as you approach. Then you walk through the gate house, and it rises even further above you. It was at this point, I knew I wanted one for my very own. Not necessarily this one, any castle of similar size and awesomeness will suit me fine.
We bought tickets to tour the inside, and I think it was well worth it, even though we were not able to take pictures inside. Despite the exterior grandeur, the inside is unfinished in areas, and much less romantic in the furnished chambers.

We toured the throne room, which was designed to look like a Byzantine church, and the throne was to be on the altar, but it was never built. The guide book even speculates that Ludwig never intended to use it as a seat of power, but that it fueled his imagination of what a leader should be. The book also says that he struggle between his duty and his desire. It is assumed that Ludwig was homosexual, and suffered as he tried to reconcile the views of Christian duty at the time with his desires for romance and love.

He covered the walls of his castle with paintings, reminding him that true happiness will be achieved by the pious in Heaven, the guides assume this was to remind him that his pain would be eternally rewarded.
These murals were very interesting to look at, though they are not considered technically proficient. They depict scenes from Wagner's operas, including Tristan and Isolde and Lohengrin, the story of the Swan-Knight. Ludwig particularly identified with the Swan-Knight, and incorporated the Swan into much of the decor, one room has 350 images of swans carved into the woodwork, on tapestries, in the paintings, and as part of the decor.

We toured Ludwig's bedroom, and when I saw the views from his windows, and his reading nook, I was ready to move in here-immediately. Now this was a European King bed. It is a custom made bed of dark, intricately carved wood, and much is larger than normal due to Ludwig's height. He has a washstand next to the bed, the faucet in the shape of a swan, and water comes out the bird's beak. http://www.neuschwanstein.de/englisch/palace/schlaf.htm
Neuschwanstein Castle

After we finished the tour, we hiked out to an expansion bridge to take some distance photos before we headed down the mountain. We rode the bus again, even more perilous going downhill because the driver seemed reluctant to hit the brakes. Next was a quick bite to eat at a local hotel restaurant, our fist German food!, and then the drive home.