Thursday, November 21, 2013

Champagne Champs

Hand Hewn Limestone Caves
Taittinger House, Reims, France
Before we moved to Europe I was unaware that wine and cheese usually earned their names from the region in which they were produced. Now I know better, and I try to incorporate these localities into our trips. In Reims, there was champagne, so named for the region in which the grapes are grown. There are several champagne houses in the area, and they use underground caves for storing their bottles.

We visited Taittinger house on the outskirts of the city; there was free parking available on site. We walked into the tours office and were able to join a tour that started in 10 minutes time. To be clear, the champagne is not pressed and bottled here; it is aged. The Taittinger champagnes are aged for at 3 years in the underground caves.  The Romans used the site as a quarry, and dug these caves into the limestone in the 4th century. After the Romans, the site was occupied by an order of Benedictine monks who built an abbey over the caves, which they used for storage and rituals. The abbey was destroyed during the French Revolution, but the caves remained beneath the surface. In the 1920s, a champagne house was founded on the premises and in the 1930s, the Taittinger family bought the site.

One of the Vaults filled with Bottles
Taittinger House, Reims, France
The caves are ideal for champagne storage because of their constant temperatures and humidity levels. The average temperature is in the 50s, and we spent at least 30 minutes underground; if you go, bring a coat. There were millions of bottles in the caves, each in various stages of the ageing process. The bottles are stacked in every cubby and vault the Romans or the monks, or the Taittinger employees excavated. They are just laid on top of one another—no shelves. Until we visited these caves, it seemed impossible that all the champagne in the world could come from this small region, but it does; Taittinger is just 1 of many houses in the region.
Champagne at the end of the Tour
Taittinger House, Reims, France
The tour ended with a glass of champagne back at ground level. After so long underground, the bubbly helped take the chill off. The kind we tried was the “base model” Brut, but there were many more “upgraded” vintages available in the gift shop. We bought some bottles of these other varieties, so hopefully they’re as good as the Brut we sampled.


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Pictures from Our Trip!
Information about Taittinger
Taittinger Homepage (Learn about Tours, the Vintages, and the History)
10 Fun Facts about Taittinger
Taittinger Champagnes

Reims

Reims Cathedral During the Light Show
Reims, France
In college, I took a medieval art/architecture history class, and the professor always encouraged us to visit the places we were studying in class. To the best of my ability, I’ve followed his advice; the Vatican, Cologne cathedral, Notre Dame in Paris, Il Duomo in Florence, Mont St Michel. Reims cathedral was also on the list. I know we won’t see everything on the list, but it’s always fun when words and images become real places.

Architecturally speaking, Reims cathedral isn’t too different from Notre Dame, but the city was a perfect stopping point for the night, and several champagne houses are based there. Furthermore, the cathedral was having an evening light show while we were in town. The show was originally conducted for the 800th anniversary in 2011, but there was an encore presentation this summer.

The show was after sunset, so we walked to the plaza in front of the western façade and waited in the darkness with the gathering crowd; the show used the cathedral as a movie screen, projecting images onto the façade. It started suddenly. The spot lights went dark. Silence fell. Then light returned—with music—illustrating the construction of the building. Step by step, from the architectural plans to the masonry work, the cathedral rose into the sky. The show’s finale was a sequence of rapid color changes that would rival an LSD trip. And then it was done. The crowd dispersed into the night.


The rear of Reims Cathedral
Reims, France

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Pictures from Our Trip!
Video of the Light Show (it's a little long, but really cool if you can hang in there, check out 05:25)
Practical Information for visiting Reims Cathedral
Learn about the Cathedral's History, Windows, and Architecture

Water Lilies

Water Lilies at Monet's Garden in Giverny, France
Sometime during the summer I learned that Monet’s Water Lilies was based on a real garden that was open to the public and located about an hour outside of Paris. With this knowledge in hand, Giverny became a way point on the trip back from Mont St Michel.

Giverny was fabulous, although it was a little crowded on the narrow paths. It’s exactly the kind of garden I’d love to have—riotous color, varied texture, and slightly overgrown. The town of Giverny is quiet and small; I think it sees most of its visitors in summer. I imagine it could still be used a retreat from Paris.

Water Lilies at Monet's Garden in Giverny, France
Since the water lilies were still blooming during our visit, it was high tourist season. As with most popular attractions, there was a long line to enter the garden. Here I will reiterate how important it is to book ahead; we used a separate back entrance and didn’t have to wait in any line because I’d pre-booked. At many sites there is an online booking discount, but even without the discount, pre-booking is worth it. See the main sites, but don’t spend your vacation standing in lines.

Useful Links!
Pictures from Our Trip!
Visit Monet's Gardens 
Online Booking of Tickets to Monet's Gardens
Museum of the Impressionists in Giverny
Rick Steve's on Giverny
See the Complete Works of Claude Monet Online

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Mont St Michel

Mont St Michel, France
When Joe finished his work in Belgium, we set off for a mini French vacation; our first stop was Mont St. Michel. I first read about this abbey when I was a little girl, in some book I don’t even remember. I was fascinated by the tides and by this church rising seamlessly from the rock to tower over its surroundings. Mont St. Michel is located at the mouth of the Couesnon River in the English Channel and has some of the most dramatic tides in the world. When the tide is out, the island becomes part of the mainland; just a church on a rocky hill. When the tide is in, the city is surrounded by water and becomes a walled island once more. The tides come in with such speed (17 feet per second) and ferocity that it is dangerous to be outside the walls. 

The mud flats around Mont St Michel
This photo was take at about 4pm
This picture was taken exactly 3 hours later, and the
area is almost completely underwater.
Mont St Michel, France
The tide was out when we arrived, so we took the opportunity to wander around the mud flats surrounding the abbey. There is something amazing about walking on mud barefoot; it just feels so good squished between your toes. Joe was hesitant to join me at first, but eventually he gave in, kicked off his shoes and socks, and strode out onto more uneven ground. Quicksand is prevalent, so our steps were careful—until we found some. It was a small patch of quicksand, and it felt very weird to walk on, but since we weren’t sucked in, we stopped worrying about it. When our feet reached the desired level of muddiness, we decided to rinse them off, and go find a place for dinner.

We returned to the “island” by walking along the shallows of the adjacent Couesnon River. During our stroll, one of the local residents scuttled up to examine me. I think the little crab wasn’t paying attention and just crashed into my toe, but when I looked down and saw him there, I screamed and ran off. I probably scared him more than he scared me, but I’m not looking to get my toes pinched.
A soloist inside Mont St. Michel abbey church









After dinner we strolled along the walls of the abbey and looked at places where we had been mere hours before—now they were all underwater. At the time, the abbey was open at night, so we were at the top of the Mont during sunset. These stunning visuals were accompanied by soloists playing period pieces. It was very moving; the acoustics inside gothic churches make is seem like music is coming from within you. 

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The Best Beer in the World

In August, Joe needed to go to Belgium for work, and before we left, we decided to check out some local breweries. A quick Google search revealed there was a brewery, Westvleteren, about an hour away selling the best beer in the world*; obviously we had to go.

The Saint Sixtus Monastery, home of Westvleteren Brewery
Vleteren, Belgium
Further research only piqued my interest more; the brewery is part of a functioning monastery. The monks brew the beer in small quantities, selling what they don’t consume to the flocked masses. Westvleteren is one of 6 trappist brewers in Belgium, and it hasn’t given in to the lure of capitalism.  Trappist denotes an order of monks that pride themselves on self-sufficiency. The monks brew beer for themselves and the community—excess is sold. They have not increased production since 1946; the monks "brew to be able to afford being monks". Chimay is sold in US supermarkets; Westmalle and St. Bernardus are available at US specialty stores; Westvleteren is only available at the monastery.

To taste the “best beer in the world”, you must make the trek to Vleteren, Belgium. Here, in the café/visitors center, you can order Westvleteren 12 by the glass. If you are interested in buying the beer by the bottle, there is a slightly more procedure to follow.
The road leading to Saint Sixtus Abbey
Vleteren, Belgium

The monks know their product is good, and they know people all over the world are clamoring for it. To deter people from buying it in mass quantities and reselling it, they’ve implemented a system that limits how much beer can be purchased at once, and how often it may be purchased. Beer may only be reserved once every 60 days, and you may only reserve 2 racks of 24 beers each. To reserve your rack, you must call the beer line at least 1 week in advance; don’t worry, they speak English. You’ll provide your license plate and choose a pick-up time, assuming of course they haven’t already sold out for that week. Keep in mind they are a religious organization, therefore they will be closed on Sundays and religious holidays, as well as any federal holidays in Belgium.  

If the reserved racks have all been claimed, or if you discovered the brewery a mere 48 hours before your intended visit like I did, there are other options available. Each day in the café, 6 packs are available for purchase. Of course, this is a long shot, and it requires driving out to the middle-of-nowhere Belgium without any assurances of availability. We went anyway.

In De Verde-the cafe/visitor's center of Westvleteren Brewery
Vleteren, Beligum
We arrived in the afternoon and joined the beer queue. This line was the closest we’ve come to experiencing a “Black Friday” phenomenon in Europe; it was still polite and orderly, despite the rare quantities for sale. It was a very tense line; all of us wondering if we would be among those lucky enough to obtain the elusive brew. Alas! It was not to be; they were sold out. But wait! A ray of hope! Westvleteren makes three beers: Blonde, 8, and 12. Blonde and 8 were still available; we purchased a 6 pack of each.

After buying our sixers and moving away from the throng still waiting their turn, we wandered outside. There are tables inside the café, but on such a beautiful day, the place to be was in the beer garden. We sat at one of the many picnic tables adorned with umbrellas and ordered a glass of 12 and of Blonde. We enjoyed our beers and gazed out at the farmland around us. This place really is in the middle of nowhere—only 1 lane roads provide access. As expected from a monastery, it’s very tranquil.

From left to right; the blonde, the 8 and the 12.
Vleteren, Belgium
Even if there are no racks or sixers to be had, you can still enjoy the 12 and its brothers by the glassful. Here’s some food (or drink) for thought as well; just because Blonde and 8 aren’t the best beer in the world, it doesn’t mean they aren’t good. They’re very, very tasty. The monks at Westvleteren are skilled brewmasters, and it’s worth the trip out there, even if all you take away is the memory of sitting in the sunshine sipping delicious beer.


*As chosen by beer advocate

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Monday, November 11, 2013

German Graves

My mother’s ancestors came from Germany, so before my parents left, we visited the towns my great-great grandparents came from. My mom was hoping she would be able to find more information from some of the local cemeteries. The towns were up near Stuttgart, and our plan was to drive around looking for cemeteries. 

Driving around Kirchheim am Neckar, we were able to find the cemeteries really easily, once we learned the German word, Friedhof; we just followed the signs. Puzzlingly, none of the graves were older than the 1950s. At the time, we thought collateral damage from WWII had destroyed all the older graves, but we wondered how that could happen to all the cemeteries in this small town. Lacking another explanation though, this was all we had to go on. It turns out the truth is actually stranger. 

Germans lease their grave spaces. The plots are rented in 15 year increments, and after 30 years, if the family doesn’t want to maintain the site, it will be reused for a totally new (dead) person. Usually, the previous occupant has returned to dust before the new occupant arrives. However, in some regions, the soil composition is such that the bodies are becoming preserved. When undertakers dig up the site, they’re finding mummified remains, and are being forced to come up with alternate solutions. 

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Pemberley

Chatsworth House
Derbyshire, England
It took all day to drive from Perthshire back to London, but to break up the drive we stopped in the Peak District, at Chatsworth House. This is one of those grand British houses leftover from another time. The house is still owned by the 12th Duke of Devonshire, a peer of the realm. This is the kind of house in which girls dreaming of being Mrs. Darcy want to live. It’s fitting then that the 2005 Pride and Prejudice movie used Chatsworth at the set for Pemberley—Mr. Darcy’s home. There is also rumor that Jane Austen modeled Pemberley on Chatsworth when she was writing Pride and Prejudice.

The library at Chatsworth House
Derbyshire, England
I’ve seen the 2005 movie a lot, so I knew the house would be big, but standing before it, I was still amazed at its size. I couldn’t believe that it all belonged to one family—and I’ve been to several castles and palaces. Maybe that’s the problem; this building was palatial, but it was referred to as a house. At least with all the servants and generations living there, it can’t be called a single family home.

Bust of Matthew Macfayden as Mr. Darcy
Chatsworth House
Derbyshire, England
We were walking through my imagination; wandering the house, grounds, and gardens. It was a welcome break from the car. I particularly enjoyed seeing vistas from the movie, and there was a prop—a bust of Matthew Macfayden as Mr. Darcy—in the gift shop. The staff around the property was all very friendly and helpful; they were well educated on their surroundings and they could answer questions or participate in discussions about the artifacts or their owners with ease. Furthermore, the Peak district is a beautiful area and driving through it was a pleasure.



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