Showing posts with label Coast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coast. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Paestum: Greek Ruins in Italy

Temple of Athena at Paestum
I've wanted to go to Greece for a while, but Joe keeps saying no. Something about political unrest and concerns over protests. We'll table it for now. But, there are some Greek ruins in Italy, in a region called Magna Graecia. This region was colonized by Greek settlers in 8th and 7th centuries BC. 

The swimming pool maze.







We visited the Paestum ruins about an hour south of Salerno. It was much cleaner in this area and quieter. It was very peaceful strolling amongst the ruins. There are 3 stunning temples that are from the 6th century BC. I find it amazing that they are still standing. There is also an unusual pool that was used for training the soldiers. It has a maze! Talk about a drowning risk! It’s a close as I’m going to Greece for now, and as far as I know, it’s a great substitute. 
Temple of Hera






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Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Our Day in Portugal

Walking to the Beach
We didn’t spend much time in Portugal, so I’m not officially crossing it off our travel list. I really wanted to see the Alhambra palace and the cheapest way of getting there off season was to fly to Lisbon and then to drive. As such, we only spent 1 day in Portugal.

After touring the Donana National Park we drove to our hotel in Portugal. We were staying near Albufeira which is a thriving resort town – in summer. In the winter about 80% of the stores and hotels were boarded up. It made finding meals a little complicated and I’m glad we had the car. Our hotel was on the beach, well sort of. The beach is at the bottom of some cliffs and our hotel was at the top, so if we were on the same elevation the hotel would have been right on the beach. Still there was an easy walking path down to the shore and it was very convenient.
Portuguese Beach in Olhos de Agua

Portugal has some truly gorgeous beaches; the water is turquoise, the sand is white, and the cliffs provide seclusion. I can see why the place would be hopping in the summer time, and why most of the people we encountered were retirees. They were also British. Not sure what that’s about, but it seems the Algarve is the place to have a tropical beach house if you are a well to do Brit.


Cove we found hiking near Benagil Beach, Portugal
While the weather was lovely, it wasn’t quite warm enough to swim or even to sun bathe, so we only walked on the beach. We also had plans to visit this cool cave. If you want to see the cave you must drive to the closest fishing village and convince a fisherman to take you out there. Recently it’s become very popular to see the caves and there are now 2 guys who only take tourists out – no fishing. Regardless, when we showed up, those 2 guys weren’t there, and the gents in the snack shop weren’t sure anyone would be going out. The sea was a bit rough, and the waves were too large for the boats we would be taking – think 12 seater row boat. Slightly disappointed we left, but decided to stay in the area and check out some other beaches. After an hour or so we returned, but our would-be guides were still nowhere to be found. We realized we wouldn’t be seeing the cave this trip. Instead, we followed a hiking trail along the top of the cliffs. We got to spend time in the sunshine and staring out into the turquoise waters – not a bad day


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Safari!

For my birthday, we drove 4 hours southwest to the coast of southern Spain. Since we were west of Gibraltar, the water was the Atlantic, not the Mediterranean. We had signed up for a tour of the Parque Nacional de Donana. The park is huge and comprised of several ecosystems which are home to a number of wild animals. There are a few visitors centers on the edges of the park, but the best (only) way to see the interior of the park is on a guided tour. These tours are given from 21 seat buses with 4 wheel drive and 5ft tall tires; all terrain buses.

Our trip began on the beach where we drove in the surf a what felt like a dangerous angle – I was anxious the whole time. The land for the park was rescued in 1969 , but a few fisherman lived on the beach in very simple huts, they were allowed to stay, and 7 remain to this day. But as we drove past the first hut, our driver abruptly turned the bus and raced toward the hut. A spark had ignited the thatched roof and the two inhabitants were trying hard to put out the fire. Unfortunately, the huts have no running water, so they were drawn bucketfuls from their well to combat the flames. Our driver grabbed the bus’s fire extinguisher, climbed onto the roof and sprayed it down. Thatch is very flammable though and the fire was underneath it, so they were having to tear off chucks of the thatch to make sure it was fully out. Between our bus driver and the two residents, they were able to stop the fire before too much damaged occurred; it was lucky we were driving by.


After this exciting beginning we continued the tour inland at the shifting dunes. The dunes are constantly changing and growing in size. They readily form hills and valleys with pine trees growing in the valleys. As the sand moves, the pine trees are covered and die, but new trees crop up in the new valleys. It is an ecosystem constantly in flux. From the dunes we entered the forest; the trees are more permanent and diverse here. This area is bordered by the marshland and is inhabited by several species of deer, wild boars, and lynxes.

During our visit the marsh was dry and cracked. As winter progresses the rains will fill it back up and it will become a breeding ground for dozens of species of birds-including flamingos. We didn’t see many birds, though we did see the wild marsh cows. Yes, wild cows sounds like an oxymoron, but there is a herd that roams this area along with marsh ponies. Their population is controlled as they aren’t strictly native species.

Our tour ended with a long drive on the beach as the sun set over the waves. It was gorgeous, and if we hadn’t visited in the off season, we wouldn’t have seen it or hardly anyh of the animals.

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Pictures from Our Trip!
Information about the National Park
Ordering Tickets for Park Tours



Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Mont St Michel

Mont St Michel, France
When Joe finished his work in Belgium, we set off for a mini French vacation; our first stop was Mont St. Michel. I first read about this abbey when I was a little girl, in some book I don’t even remember. I was fascinated by the tides and by this church rising seamlessly from the rock to tower over its surroundings. Mont St. Michel is located at the mouth of the Couesnon River in the English Channel and has some of the most dramatic tides in the world. When the tide is out, the island becomes part of the mainland; just a church on a rocky hill. When the tide is in, the city is surrounded by water and becomes a walled island once more. The tides come in with such speed (17 feet per second) and ferocity that it is dangerous to be outside the walls. 

The mud flats around Mont St Michel
This photo was take at about 4pm
This picture was taken exactly 3 hours later, and the
area is almost completely underwater.
Mont St Michel, France
The tide was out when we arrived, so we took the opportunity to wander around the mud flats surrounding the abbey. There is something amazing about walking on mud barefoot; it just feels so good squished between your toes. Joe was hesitant to join me at first, but eventually he gave in, kicked off his shoes and socks, and strode out onto more uneven ground. Quicksand is prevalent, so our steps were careful—until we found some. It was a small patch of quicksand, and it felt very weird to walk on, but since we weren’t sucked in, we stopped worrying about it. When our feet reached the desired level of muddiness, we decided to rinse them off, and go find a place for dinner.

We returned to the “island” by walking along the shallows of the adjacent Couesnon River. During our stroll, one of the local residents scuttled up to examine me. I think the little crab wasn’t paying attention and just crashed into my toe, but when I looked down and saw him there, I screamed and ran off. I probably scared him more than he scared me, but I’m not looking to get my toes pinched.
A soloist inside Mont St. Michel abbey church









After dinner we strolled along the walls of the abbey and looked at places where we had been mere hours before—now they were all underwater. At the time, the abbey was open at night, so we were at the top of the Mont during sunset. These stunning visuals were accompanied by soloists playing period pieces. It was very moving; the acoustics inside gothic churches make is seem like music is coming from within you. 

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Friday, October 11, 2013

The Boat Show

For our last day in Scotland, I’d booked us tickets to the Traditional Scottish Wooden Boat Show in Portsoy, Scotland; it seemed like the perfect event for my Dad. When we arrived it was cold and rainy, and since we were on the coast, there was a cold wind blowing in off the North Sea. The weather really diminished our enthusiasm, but the festival looked like it would have been a lot of fun if it wasn’t so cold and rainy. There was an outdoor stage were a group was singing sea shanties, but I couldn’t bring myself to sit in a wet chair in the rain to listen to them.
Yellow Pants doing most of the Work
Portsoy, Scotland

The weather was apparently part of a much larger storm and a lot of the boats were setting sail to try to avoid it. The show was supposed to last until 7pm that evening, but when we arrived at noon, only 2 large boats remained, and they shipped off within the hour. These departures were actually the most interesting part of the festival. The ships were traditional crafts, so the crew used traditional methods to exit the 300 year old harbor—no outboard motors.

Safely exiting the harbour
Portsoy, Scotland
To exit, two lines (nautical speak for rope) were connected to 2 “tie up thingies” (also a nautical term*). The whole crew would pull on the first line to pull the ship away from the harbor wall, and then they would start pulling on the second line to turn and exit out to sea.

The first boat was manned by an experienced crew and they managed a beautiful exit. Some of the men were old and just standing around though; one young guy in yellow pants appeared to be doing the brunt of the work, but he was clearly capable of working alone.
Notice the rope they're tugging on
Portsoy, Scotland

The second ship was crewed by a bunch of newbies, unused to working together as a team. It took them much longer to exit the harbor and their departure wasn’t nearly as smooth. With a few months at sea, they’ll be able to manage turns better in the future.

After the big ships left, there wasn’t too much else going on. There were smaller boats and even some dinghies, but their captains weren’t around for chatting. We also visited some of the shops, but my Dad is full up on lines and buoys, so we didn’t buy anything. My Mom and I did visit a bead shop where a woman was selling beads out of her motor home.  There is a bead store in Regensburg where I get my beads so I was all set. I also wasn’t thrilled that her crystals came from China and were priced higher than the genuine Swarovski crystals I’d been buying. But I guess that’s what happens when you aren’t next door to Austria.

*Thanks to Google, I’ve learned the proper term for the “tie up thingies”. It's bollard.

A Very Full Day in Scotland

The remains of Hadrian's Wall near Cawfield's Quarry
Haltwhistle, England
After breakfasting with some Polish athletes we left Newcastle. I think they were soccer players, but they were all so tall and skinny they could easily have been basketball playing gymnasts. We walked off our breakfast while visiting Hadrian’s Wall at Cawfield's Quarry; remnants from the Roman Empire. When new, the wall was 16-20 feet high, but now it’s only chest height. The stones were pilfered after the fall of Rome, but they were reused in the fencing and houses of the locals.

Milecastle 42 at Hadrian's Wall
Haltwhistle, England
The wall was very precise; every mile was a milecastle gate, and every seven miles was a fort, regardless of natural topography. The part we visited skirted the edge of steep incline, but Milecastle 42 was there. The wall functioned as the northern-most boundary of Rome, and there are conflicting accounts as to why the Romans didn’t press further into Scotland. One account claims the Scots were ferocious fighters who held the Romans off; the other maintains that the Romans looked at the sparse, rocky land and said “keep it”. It should be obvious which account the Scots prefer. We paced the wall for a bit, playing centurion, and then we pressed deeper into Scotland.

In April my sister and I rode the train from King’s Cross station in London to Edinburgh in Scotland, and it passed close to the Scottish coast line; we followed a similar route when we drove north.  I love the landscape of Scotland; it feels so open and grandiose. The drive was beautiful, but it was a bit time consuming, and we arrived late for our whisky tour in Edinburgh.

Part of the world's largest collection of Scotch Whisky
at the Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh, Scotland
Luckily tours run all day and we were able to join a later tour. The only apparent downside: we had to share our tour with a stag party. However, it was still early in their night and they weren’t rowdy. The tour started out with a barrel ride where a ghost detailed the instructions for brewing decent whisky. Most interestingly, the size and shape of the still can change the taste of the whisky. There are a few tour options at the Scotch Whiskey Experience; my dad chose Gold but the rest of us selected Silver. Gold tours come with 4 bonus drams in addition to the 1 dram everyone in the Silver tour receives.

Wandering the Beautiful Royal Mile
Edinburgh, Scotland
There are 5 flavor profiles of whisky in Scotland, but Campbeltown Malt is rare and wasn’t really discussed during our tasting. Of the 100 or so brewers in Scotland, only 3 produce the Campbeltown Malt, and rarely is it exported. Since there were 4 remaining flavor profiles, and 4 of us on the tour, we each selected a different style. I do think my Dad and I ended up drinking most of all 4 though. After the guided tasting, we were led into a room with wonderful views of the Royal Mile and Holyrood Park, where my sister and I hiked last time. Here Dad received his additional 4 drams; one of each style. We asked for some dark chocolate, and he and I proceeded to share the drams; cheeks growing steadily redder. Mom and Joe ordered beers, but they didn’t like the one that tasted like caramel popcorn. I found that caramel popcorn beer was a great chaser for the smoky Speyside whisky. Then, in case we hadn’t consumed enough, we went to Whiski for dinner. As before, it was delicious.

Poor guy. He did not see this coming!
South Bridge Vaults, Edinburgh, Scotland
When we finished dinner we wandered the Royal Mile a bit before meeting the Mercat Cross for our Ghostly Underground Tour; the same tour my sister and I were on in April. This time though, our tour was in the final time slot for the evening; no one would be entering the vaults after us. It was still damp, dark, and eerie, but we didn’t feel anything supernatural. We did take some pictures this time, and Joe managed to accidentally blind a guy with the flash; it was so dark we couldn’t see him until it was too late.

That night we stayed in the Edinburgh Hilton which was a labyrinth of passages and stairways. It felt a little like Hogwarts; I kept waiting for the staircases to move. The bed was giant and old, and it’s creaking was a little scary after the ghost tour, but we managed to sleep well. The weird thing is, the rooms on their website look nothing like the historic room in which we stayed.

Thursday, July 18, 2013

Road Trip Pt. 3: Venice, Italy!

Interior of St. Mark's Basilica
Venice, Italy
I love Italy with its mild temperatures and Mediterranean diet. When we visited Venice though, I learned there is a big difference between southern Italy and northern Italy. The biggest shock was the olive oil—there wasn’t much. The climate is not conducive to olive growing and there are only a few groves in the area around Lake Garda. Also much less surprising, being closer to the Alps, the weather is cooler and subject to greater fluctuations—hence no olive oil.

We spent two days in Venice and had 3 tours booked using Veneto Inside. Our first tour was behind the scenes at St. Mark’s Basilica, and it turned out that we were the only people on the tour. We were able to ask lots of questions and our guide escorted us to areas no longer open to the public, most notably the baptistery dedicated to St. John. St. Mark’s has vastly different architecture than what we’ve seen previously. Venice was a seafaring, merchant city and the basilica was obviously influenced by styles outside of Western Europe; it looks like a typical byzantine church found in Turkey. Much of the interior was gilded and the art within was more Middle Eastern than typical renaissance art found in other Italian churches.
Venice, Italy

That evening we had dinner on the Grand Canal. Venice has more tourists than locals and the restaurant didn’t have an authentic feel, but the ambience of sitting canal-side was nice. We sat right next to the edge of the canal and were able to watch the chaos that is water traffic from a safe distance. As we finished our dinner we encountered a downside to sitting so close to the canal: flooding. The water had risen during our meal and was now pooling around our feet. We paid and headed into the labyrinthine streets in search of our hotel. There are over 400 bridges in Venice, but lots of streets still dead end into the canals.
Minor Flooding
Venice, Italy

The next morning’s weather did not bode well for the already swollen canals; a storm was brewing. We decided to visit Murano Island in the morning and wander around more of Venice in the afternoon. Murano is another small series of islands similar to Venice and is located about 1½ miles northwest of the city.

We took a water bus, or vaporetto, to Murano. Our route took us out into the lagoon where the waters of the Adriatic were rougher due to the impending storm. Knowing what white caps mean from experience, I went below deck and had the pleasure of watching everyone above get soaked when we hit the first wake of another boat. I also delighted in standing the whole ride; it was like surfing. I could see the locals waiting for me to fall and I’m proud to report they were disappointed. I may be clumsy on land, but years of sailing with my Dad have given me pretty sturdy sea-legs.

Rough Seas
Murano, Italy
Murano Island has far fewer tourists and locals than Venice; people tend to visit for one reason. For centuries, Murano has been the location of master glass craftsmen. During the height of the glass monopoly, the masters were forbidden from leaving the island for fear of trade secrets getting out. There were rumors that dissenters would have their tongues cut out.

The secrets are still jealously guarded, though with less brutal punishments. Today the main fear is cheap, Chinese knockoffs, and photography isn’t allowed. Now with fewer craftsmen in the city, I’d rather support the masters so the craft doesn’t die out. The art is stunning; shapes and colors that shouldn’t be possible with glass as a medium. It takes at least 10 years of training to become a master; many craftsmen spend even longer developing their skills. The price of the art is proportional to the amount of work that each piece requires. At first blush the prices seem outrageous, but as soon as you see the process, you understand.
Our Lamp Shades from Murano

If cooled too quickly, hot glass breaks. During formation the glass is heated to ridiculously high temperatures so that it will be pliable. After the master shapes the pliable glass, the piece is placed into an oven to cool down. Letting the glass cool on its own to room temperature would cause it to break; instead it cools slowly in the oven over a few days.

Joe and I purchased a beautiful light fixture (previously I was saying chandelier but that’s not really an accurate description) from Franco Schiavon Gallery. It’s mostly metal, and it reminds me of a tropical plant; the glass shades are the flowers. There are 5 shades, each in a different color. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to take any pictures before they wrapped it up, so it’ll be awhile before you can get the full experience.

After our purchase we were allowed to see the work shop and the specially commissioned pieces. We were also permitted to photograph as much as we wanted. I won’t be making these pictures publicly available to protect the privacy of the artists, but it’s nice to have them for my personal use.

The Grand Canal
Venice, Italy
All the lights and chandeliers are wired for European outlets and voltages when they’re made. Since we are taking ours back to the US the wiring needed to be changed before we could leave the shop. While they were changing our wires and boxing the light, we wandered around the show rooms. After, while we were waiting, the power went out! The store was 3 levels and each piece had display lighting. During our tour of the store, our guide would power up each room when we walked in, and flip all the fuses back off when we left. I think someone had too many lights on at once and overloaded the system. Once power was restored we got our packages and some cute glass candies as a parting gift. We didn’t have time to return to the hotel so we carried our bulky packages the rest of the night—through 2 tours.

Venice, Italy
The first tour was pretty interesting; it was called a taste of Venice, and by chance we were again alone with the guide. Basically we were bar hopping; eating a traditional small snack, or cicchetti, paired with wine, sort of like tapas. Unfortunately, something they ate didn’t agree with them, and Joe’s parents both got sick. Joe and I didn’t, and everything we ate tasted amazing.

The second tour was a large ghost tour and it was given about a half hour before dusk, so it wasn’t very dark. It was difficult to get in the mood when there were no shadows creeping around corners. We were able to see more Venice on this tour and to witness the city under siege from high water. All the rain during the day had significantly increased the high tide depths. The high water warning siren rang, and the flood gates went up in front of home and businesses. We had to splash our way through a few puddles to get home that night.

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Jurassic Park

Lulworth Cove, Dorset, England

The next stop on our farther afield trip was the Jurassic Coast. We visited a portion in a little town called Lulworth Cove; I chose it so we could see the Durdle Door. Moving from Hampton Roads to Alpine Germany cuts your beach time severely, and I was missing the coast.

The Durdle Door from the top of the Cliff. We hiked down to the shore.
Dorset, England
The name Jurassic Coast comes from the fossils found here over the centuries. The Jurassic Coast stretches along 96 miles of beaches on England’s Southern coast. The area is susceptible to land slips, and that is how many of the larger fossils were found; a swath of the cliffs on the coastline fell away revealing the fossils inside, including marine dinosaurs. The fossils span 180 million year of history, and are not only from the Jurassic, but also the Triassic and Cretaceous periods.

The whole Jurassic coast is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but you can still collect fossils if you follow certain guidelines. If you uncover large or scientifically significant fossils, you must report your find, and if you follow the rules, it is likely you will be allowed to keep it. Full details of the fossil code can be found here.

We found a few small fossils we were able to take without violating the fossil code, and we didn’t see anything larger. The bigger, more important fossils usually turn up after a storm when the landscape has changed enough to uncover them.

England's unique coastline; grassy hills to the right, sheer cliff faces to the left.
Dorset, England
England’s coastline is not like a typical American coast where you approach a nice flat beach and can see the ocean from miles away. The English coast is made up of sheer cliff faces that crumble easily. When we arrived in Lulworth, we were unsure if we were in the right place because the landscape still looked like the countryside we had been driving through; rolling, grassy hills. Once we climbed the hills, we were able to see their backsides, the rocky cliffs, and climb down to the shore. It was beautiful and tricky. In some places there used to be stairs and paths, but the land under them has eroded, and the man-made stuff has crashed to beach below. Now it is a much more authentic hiking experience; no handrails or pavements, just difficult ground. Even the beach itself was unstable; the sand was coarse, more like gravel, and it gave way under foot.
The beach and the cliffs near Durdle Door
Dorset, England

All difficulties in arriving were forgotten when we reached the beach, and our fossil hunt began. The smallest pebbles in the sand we largely ignored, though we did see some of the tiniest shells among them: about 2mm at their tallest. We looked for ammonites among the larger rocks and we actually found something! They’re small, but since we didn’t bring a hammer and chisel, they’re the best we could hope for.

The beach was gorgeous, I would love to spend more time on the English coast, and maybe discover a much large fossil. The area is dotted with small towns like Lulworth, and spending time in any of them would be a very relaxing vacation. Jane Austen herself spent some time on the Jurassic Coast in a town called Lyme Regis, and it later became the setting of one of her novels: Persuasion

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