Showing posts with label Nurnberg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nurnberg. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

The Third Reich in Bavaria

Hitler's Former Retreat, Eagle's Nest
Berchtesgaden, Germany
While our guests were here we visited a variety of former Nazi hangouts. Hitler was quite active in Bavaria and there are many things to see, even if they aren’t widely publicized. With Joe’s parents we toured Eagle’s Nest and Dachau, and with his brother and my parents we explored the Rally Grounds in Nuremburg. We also learned that both Mercedes in Stuttgart (not Bavaria, I know) and BMW in Munich used concentration camp inmate as forced laborers in their factories to keep up with demand from the Fuhrer.

Sun and snow
Berchtesgaden, Germany



Eagle’s Nest is an interesting place to visit, but it hardly retains any of the vestiges of Nazism. This house on top of a mountain was a 50th birthday present from the Nazi party to Hitler. Like the German cars of the time, the house was built by slave labor. When the war ended, there was talk of blowing it up, but the mayor of a nearby town convinced people it should be saved. The building was spared from total destruction, but it was ransacked and stripped of anything valuable. Joe’s dad visited it 20 years ago and said all the windows were gone and it was open to the elements—like a true eagle’s nest. Since that time a restaurant has bought and repaired the building; they’re open from mid-May to October, depending on the weather.

Eagle’s Nest is in the Alps and at the top of the mountain the weather is vastly different from the valley below. When we visited, the weather below was mid-70s, but there was still snow on top of the mountain! The views were stunning and we were in the cloud line; they were changing by the second, revealing and concealing panoramic vistas. I do think that the ticket was a little expensive; to reach the summit you could either walk/bike up, or you could ride the bus for a mere 17 euros per person. It was like 1 euro/minute!

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No man's land, Dachau Concentration Camp
Dachau, Germany
Dachau was an informative site, but I have mixed feelings about it; not surprising as it’s a former concentration camp. When the war ended, and the camp was liberated, almost everything at Dachau was leveled. The buildings on the site now are exact replicas, something I found a little odd. I was also annoyed with groups of noisy tourists not showing the place enough respect, and with the people snapping happy family portraits: inappropriate.

Some aspects of the camp remained as they were in the 40s: the ovens and the geography. Around the perimeter of the camp was a tall, electrified fence with barbed wire on top; it’s still there, but no longer electrified. Immediately inside the fence is a 4 foot wide strip of land called no-man’s-land. If a prisoner entered no man’s land, they were shot and killed. To even make it to no man’s land they would have to cross the deep ditch filled with the rushing water from the Amper River. Inside the ditch was finally the area of the camp where prisoners could walk. The camp seemed large until I realized how many people were crammed into the space. The beds were triple bunk beds and they put at least 3 people in each bunk. This sounds like an impossible feat until you remember the prisoners were emaciated to point of resembling skeletons.

Some of the ovens at Dachau Concentration Camp
Dachau, Germany
During the height of the 3rd Reich, Dachau was used as a model camp and all the other camps were based off its design. The first people imprisoned were political prisoners and the camp was periodically inspected for cleanliness and safety. At some point though, the line was crossed and the camp was used to house “undesirables”: Jews, Poles, Roma, and the mentally ill. When this occurred, systematic killings began, and they incorporated the gas chambers and the ovens. Anyone asked to run these machines could have no doubt about the moral implications. This is not something to turn a blind eye on, claiming ignorance of the operation. This was a carefully orchestrated way of methodically ending lives. So many bodies piled up waiting to be incinerated, and the original ovens were so overworked, the camp needed to purchase several new, larger ovens. The ashes were dumped in piles outside; to this day no one knows how many people were disposed of in this way. It’s been decades since the ovens were used and they appear ghost-like, bringing unbidden thoughts to my mind; is that residue ash; am I walking over thousands of remains; why did this happen? The camp was close enough to the town that there could be no mistaking what happened there, and with the ovens running almost non-stop, the smell would have been undeniable.

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Former Nazi Party Rally Grounds, now it's an occasional racetrack
Nuremberg, Germany
With Jason we visited Nuremberg and the Nazi Party Grounds. On the outskirts of the city, Hitler was building a massive complex of buildings and parks for use by the Nazi party. He finished the Rally Grounds, and for several years there were annual rallies held, drawing thousands of visitors for speeches, parades, and ceremonies. Hitler also began construction on a large building modeled after the Colosseum, but this was never finished. Today it houses the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände; incidentally the largest German words we’ve seen to date.

Dachau and the Holocaust museum serve as memorials to the victims and details the horrors they experienced in the camps. The Docu-Center is about the Nazis themselves, providing a different view of the situation. In no way does it glorify the Nazis, but it does provide the history of the party and eventually the war. It provides historical information, but its focus is not the Holocaust. The museum has a 5 euro admission and comes with a free audio guide that translates all the signs from German. The exhibits are chronological and detail the party’s rise to power. They also provide background information on some of the support systems, such as the secret police and the propaganda team. There is a wealth of information here including pictures, videos, sound clips, and, as the name suggests, documents. When you find yourself at a Holocaust memorial, baffled by the number of victims, and you’re asking, “how could this happen”, the Docu-center is the place to go for some answers.

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Thursday, January 26, 2012

Nurnberger


Interior of St. Lorenz Church

Joe says Nurnberger a lot now, similar to the character in 30 Rock who repeatedly says his own last name, Hornberger. This show is funny and weird, if you haven’t seen it, get on it, because it routinely cracks me up. Alright moving on . . . . to Nurnberg, Germany. This is yet another city that English speakers decided to translate, you may know it as Nuremburg, and while this confusing, I checked, and they are in fact the same city.

(Joe’s) Work brought us to the city at 10am. To make it there at this time we had to wake up at 5:30am, leaving ample time to accomplish various preparatory steps before we left. When we arrived we were quite tired, a little hungry (since we breakfasted at 6), and VERY cold because it was -7 degrees Celsius outside. Our attitudes coupled with the fact that we had visited the city in December during the Christkindlmarkt made us reluctant to tour around the city. We agreed to have lunch and then go back to Regensburg.

Destruction from WWII Bombing at St. Sebaldus
En route to lunch we popped into the first of 3 churches we would visit that day, St. Lorenz. This was necessary as it was not even 11:30 yet, and most places were not yet open for lunch. Inside the church, we discovered that giant cathedrals built hundreds of years ago tend not to have heat. So being inside the building shaves maybe 2 degrees off the temperature, making it a balmy -5 degrees Celsius. After lunch, we visited 2 more churches, Frauenkirche Nurnberg and St. Sebaldus.

St. Sebaldus inside St. Sebaldus Church
Each of these churches has managed to rebuild their glory following the destruction of World War II. Nurnberg was a hotbed of Nazi activity and it is estimated that some 6,000 were killed during the air raids, which leveled parts of the city. St. Sebaldus has a series of photograph posters, detailing the how the church rose from the ashes. Also inside St. Sebaldus church is St. Sebaldus, inside a richly detailed reliquary. I love reliquaries and pilgrimage churches, and there are 2 high on my list; Canterbury and Santiago de Compostela. More fun facts, Johann Pachelbel, as in Pachelbel’s Canon, as in I walked down the aisle to that song, was an organist in St. Sebaldus for over a decade.

Frauenkirche Nurnberg
Frauenkirche Nurnberg had a contentious history long before parts of it were destroyed by the Allies. It was built on the site of a Jewish synagogue following a pogrom in 1349. This parallels further treatment of Jews, during the Nazi regime, as Nurnberg was where all their rights as German citizens were revoked in 1935. To make amends for this treatment, the first of many war trials were held in Nurnberg (The Nuremberg Trials). I digress, back to Fraunkirche  . . . . It was designed to be the holding place of the Holy Roman Emperor’s crown and scepter, and was designed to appear as a giant case. Inside, it is small, further evidence indicating it wasn’t designed to be a large parish church, but a place for housing the symbols of the Holy Roman Emperor’s power.

Moving away from churches, Nurnberg has other tourist attractions. The city is famous for their Nurnberger Rostbrautwurst, which can only be produced in the city of Nurnberg (to earn the name). Joe ordered his to go in a bun, like a sandwich.

Nurnberg Castle
Nurnberg is a medieval city, still surrounded by the old fortifications. The wall is open to the public, with many places to walk along or through it. On top of a hill stands the old medieval castle, still protected by the walls. It is very quaint looking, and has a pleasant panoramic view of the city. The castle is now a museum and for a moderate price you can spend a couple hours following a guide around the castle tour.

And finally, Nurnberg is the home of Albrecht Durer. Unless your name is Megan Fox, you may be wondering who this guy is, and the answer is complicated. I knew of him from his prints, made by applying ink to wood or metal carvings and making copies. However, if you judge him only on these works, you will be missing huge facets of his other works. He painted and made altar pieces, and made star charts, and wrote treatises on mathematics and anatomy. Truly, a renaissance man, though I guess that is only funny if you know he is from the renaissance. Regardless, check it out for yourself, here is a link to a complete collection of his work http://www.albrecht-durer.org/