Saturday, December 28, 2013

The Olive Oil Tour

The aged olive tree
I love olive oil. You probably already know that. But it bears repeating because everyone should love olive oil. Spain is actually the largest olive oil producer in the world. Like wine, the flavor of olive oil depends on growing conditions; each country, each region, even each farm produces different tasting oils. I wanted to taste Spanish olive oil, so I signed us up for a tasting to be followed by tapas and a wine tasting.

We were picked up in downtown Granada and whisked off to a small town called Nigüelas in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We stopped first in an olive grove where the trees were 300 years old. Olive trees grow slowly, so these trees are much smaller than a 300 year old maple, oak, or elm tree would be. They didn’t even seem taller than younger olive trees, just bushier. Amongst the olive trees were almond and pomegranate trees. In Andalusia they have a saying, plant an almond tree for your children and an olive tree for your grandchildren.


Joe trying the water from the "fountain of youth" in Nigüelas. 
We left the fields and drove into the town square where there is a fountain fed by the Sierra Nevada. It is rumored that drinking the water will make you younger. It was tasty and not as cold as I thought it would be, but it didn’t stop my birthday from coming. I like the concept of potable water in public fountains as it’s very easy to satisfy your thirst. From the square we walked to an ancient olive mill, Las Laerillas, from the 15th century.

 The mill fell out of use in the 1920s and it was boarded up and forgotten. In the 1990s the town realized what a treasure they had and they reopened the mill as a museum. It is the oldest olive mill in Spain. Outside the mill are stone cells which served as bins for sorting picked olives—each family had their own cell. These were weighed (so each family received their proper share) and then brought to the Molino de Sangre or Mill of Blood. This type of mill earned its name in Roman times when slaves were used to turn the millstones; the slaves were later replaced with donkeys, but the name remained.
The giant pressing lever at the Las Laerillas Mill




After milling, the olives were pressed. This was achieved by use of giant levers. The pressed oil/water mixture flowed into underground chambers and gravity separated the oil from the water. The finished product was stored in giant terracotta pots from which manageable quantities could be labeled.




Large terracotta pots used for storing the pressed oil.

The final stop on the tour was a small shop where we had our tasting. We tasted 3 local oils with different tastes and 2 flavored oils. There are 2 methods of flavoring oil: the flavoring (herbs, fruits, or spices) can be added to the oil during bottling; or the flavoring can be added during milling. In the first method, the flavoring will sit in the bottle, slowing imparting flavor over time. In the latter, the flavoring and the olives are ground together and then pressed. The flavored oils we tried were lemon and basil, and they were flavored with the second method. The basil oil was delicious and would be an excellent way to impart basil flavor when basil leaves are out of season. I’m really excited to try it in some recipes. The lemon oil was very different; we ate it like a dessert. We poured the oil over bread and then sprinkled a little bit of sugar on top. This combination transformed the bread into an enchanting dessert.

After the oil we had our wine tasting, and among the samples was a dry, white sherry. It smelled like it would be potent, a little like whisky. But, since old sherry casks are used to age whisky, it is the whisky that smells like sherry. Despite its strong smell though, it was a smooth drink—very tasty. We bought a bottle. We also tried another sherry; it was red and much sweeter. It was made from raisins; the grapes are dried in the sun before pressing. While interesting to try, I think was too sweet.

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European Food Crops

Orange Tree!
Outside the cities, European landscape quickly becomes farm land. Each country grows plants that are integral to their national products; vineyards lace across France, hops towers in the German fields, and apple orchards dot the English countryside. When we were driving around southern Portugal and Spain, I knew the plants growing in the fields adjacent to the highway were commercial, but it took me some time to identify them.

The easiest trees were the citrus trees—their branches were bulging with oranges and lemons. Next came the olive trees; they too were easy to pick out thanks to our earlier trips to Italy, and like the citrus trees, their boughs were covered in the fruit. I realized somewhat belatedly that the pine trees were cultivated for their pine nuts; I should have remembered them from Italy as well. There were two more difficult to identify species in the fields. The tall leafy trees came into my mind abruptly when I remembered seeing their picture on a pack of cough drops—eucalyptus. The last tree involved more observation to identify. I noticed the bark had been stripped off the trunks and I recalled reading about cork oaks; every 9 years the bark is carefully cut away and turned into bottle stoppers.

If you look at the bark carefully, you can see it's two different colors.
The darker color is where the cork was stripped off.
Near Granada there were also almond and pomegranate trees growing. Pomegranates are actually the symbol of Granada; they are featured in sculpture and mosaics all over the city. This should come as no surprise when you learn the Spanish word for pomegranate is granada. Unfortunately during our visit it wasn’t quite pomegranate season yet, so we didn’t eat them at every meal.

Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl

When we finished our pints in the Gravity Bar we headed out the Temple Bar area of Dublin for a literary pub crawl. I was nervous about this tour; the description sounded a little cheesy, and I’ve been on enough cheesy tours. Luckily for me, it wasn’t.

Dublin Literary Pub Crawl
Dublin, Ireland
There were 2 men conducting the tour, and periodically they would act out little vignettes of Irish authors and their works. These I found quite funny, but I’m not sure everyone on the tour got all the jokes—only a few of us were laughing. I particularly enjoyed their interpretation of some of Oscar Wilde’s personal correspondence. Our guides also sang during the tour, and that was a lovely taste of Irish musical culture.

We toured 4 pubs that night, just a fraction of the over 800 pubs in Dublin. Since the tour cannot possibly cover this many, there is an accompanying book that gives the history of more famous pubs in Dublin, as well as background information on Irish authors and poets. We bought the book and had it signed by the author, one of the stars of the tour that night.

The tour concluded with a little trivia quiz about Dublin and her authors—there was even a prize! It was a close race, but in the end, only one person could win: me! I won a free Pub Crawl t-shirt! WOO!! I had a lot of fun on this tour (even before I won the t-shirt) and I would definitely take it again.

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My Goodness, My Guinness

The Guinness Storehouses
Dublin, Ireland
Our first stop in Dublin was the Guinness Storehouse. The center is located in a 7-storey building though which you guide yourself. Each entry ticket comes with a pint voucher. There are several places to redeem the voucher, but the best place is probably the Gravity Bar on the 7th floor; it provides unimpeded vistas of Dublin. The visitor center might be the tallest building in Dublin.

Gravity Bar Views
Dublin, Ireland
This visit was fun and informative, but I thought it was a bit expensive. I also would have liked to see the brewery process in action. The exhibits featured museum-worthy pieces of machinery and videos of the historic brewing process. Still, we had a good time and it’s a fun place to spend an afternoon.
There are 3 cafes at the storehouse, and their menus all feature dishes that are made with Guinness—a tasty theme. Even more interesting . . . there are recipes for some of these delicious dishes on their website.

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The Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher
County Clare, Ireland
We stopped for lunch at the Roadside Tavern brewpub before we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher. There aren’t many microbreweries in Ireland—Guinness has a pretty dominant market share—but we sought them out. When we walked in, we were immediately brought into conversation with a couple of regulars. Ireland has the friendliest people of any country we’ve visited; the Irish are always happy to shoot the breeze over a pint. On our way out of the bar we noticed a Great Lakes Brewing sticker; I was not the first Ohioan to visit this pub.

Don't climb over the wall and fall off the cliffs to your death
Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland
Sated, we drove to the Cliffs of Moher. It was like being on the edge of the world; the cliffs rise above the sea some 700 feet, with thousands of miles of ocean on the horizon. The visuals are so dramatic they’ve been featured in several films, including The Princess Bride (the Cliffs of Insanity) and Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince (Voldemort’s Horcrux Cave).

There are tour options that include boat trips around the cliffs and to the nearby Aran Islands. However, there was an epic storm blowing in with hurricane strength winds, so we decided to stay safely on land, and out of the rough seas.





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Friday, November 22, 2013

A Weekend on the Emerald Isle

Tullamore DEW Old Bonded Warehouse
Tullamore, Irealnd
On our first day in Ireland we drove across the entire country, coast to coast, and it only took 3 hours—Ireland’s not that wide.  We were driving from Dublin to the Cliffs of Moher. Along the way we stopped off in Tullamore to visit the Tullamore DEW whisky distillery. While in Scotland, I discovered that I liked Scotch, so I was eager to try some Irish whisky. Not particularly liking scotch, Joe was not as eager. There are many distilleries around Ireland. We chose Tullamore because it was on our route from Dublin to County Clare, it was cheaper than the Jameson tour in Dublin, and we’d heard of it.



Placemat for Tasting 3 Whisky Blends
Tullamore, Ireland

The Tullamore Dew visitor center opens at 9:30am and we arrived slightly before 10:00am. We inquired about tour times, but the text tour wasn’t until 10:20am. Since we didn’t have the time to wait around 30 minutes for an hour long tour to start we bought a tasting ticket instead for only €5.00. Before our tasting started we watched a little video about the history of the whisky, and then were walked through the museum on a personal mini-tour. Next, we tasted 3 blends of whiskies that were vastly different from scotch. They were also generous pours, Joe—the driver—didn’t finish his. Don’t worry though, no whisky was wasted on this tour; I finished his too.

The tour ended in the gift shop where all kinds of Tullamore DEW merchandise and whisky was available for purchase. There are 2 blends of their whisky that is only available in their visitor center. We wanted to buy a bottle, but I was hesitant to spend the requisite amount on whisky we hadn’t even tasted. Luckily, they had just opened a bottle at the bar, so I was able to taste it there with some of the bar maids. The 3 of us pronounced it delicious—Joe would just have to believe us—and we bought the bottle.

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Pictures from Our Trip!
Visit the Tullamore Dew Old Bonded Warehouse
Tullamore DEW Whiskies


This Duck Quacks Me Up!

Why, yes, that is a giant rubber duck
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
In September, I returned to the US for a wedding. A week after the wedding, the giant rubber duck came to Pittsburgh! A city on the east coast—finally I would be able to see it! The giant duck is an art installation by the Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman; it has been all over the world, with each city building its own duck. I talked my parents into visiting the duck with me, and since my Grandma lives near Pittsburgh, we brought her along too.

Grandma and the Duck
My grandma is 91, and I was pretty sure she’d never seen anything like the duck in her whole life, so I didn’t tell her the whole truth about our plans. I told her that my parents and I would come down for lunch, and then we’d all visit this art exhibit in Pittsburgh. Honestly, I think she was more excited about the lunch than the art. I promised her she’d like the art, and she agreed to go.

My dad was not feeling it. He’d just come back from a weeklong conference and was not looking forward to driving 3 hours “just to see a duck”. He came along anyway, but I don’t think he expected to enjoy himself. When we reached Pittsburgh (please note it took only 2 hours, not 3), the duck was visible from the highway, and we were stuck in traffic. Luckily, we were able to divert my Grandma’s attention with the Steelers’ and Pirates’ stadiums. We got a little turned around trying to the find the entrance to the park, so our first view of the duck was from across the river. It was humorous, but it wasn’t the full effect, so I convinced my reluctant Dad we needed to get closer.


So ridiculous!
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
Back on the proper side of the river, we parked the car and walked to Point State Park. The duck was anchored in such a place that you couldn’t see it until you were nearly right up next to it. Here was the true amazement; my dad took one look at it and gave his genuine belly laugh. Grandma was also amused. She laughed at the duck, and the babies, and duck, and the babies. I think the duck and the babies were tied for her attention.

Useful Links!
Duck Pictures!
Fllorentijn Hofman's Duck Page
Rubber Duck Wikipedia Page